The Italian Way with Eggs BY DANA JACOBI FOR THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH

Both the omelet and the frittata were created by cooks turning a few basic, humble ingredients into something desirable. But comparing the two egg dishes reveals fundamental differences between the French and Italian styles of cooking. It even illustrates why people speak of French cuisine but Italian cooking.

The classic French omelet transforms eggs and a filling (which may be anything from sautéed mushrooms to a dollop of jelly to caviar and sour cream) into a dish that is elegant in both its simplicity and precision. Mastering the art of omelet-making was once the first step toward becoming a gourmet cook.

Before even touching the eggs, the omelet novice would read a cookbook by Julia Child or consult Jacques Pepin. The most serious bought a proper omelet pan that was used exclusively for the exalted dish. Cooks practiced, practiced, practiced to produce the perfect omelet: a fluffy, golden pillow folded just so over its chosen filling, properly runny at its heart. Even if you aren’t aiming for a perfect presentation, it’s easy to make an omelet that is too firm and dry to be truly enjoyable.

An Italian frittata, on the other hand, is a decidedly casual, even rustic dish made in a frying pan. The eggs bind together the other ingredients – often vegetables like peppers and asparagus, or the broccoli and potatoes you see in this recipe. Although producing a perfectly cooked frittata and getting it out of the pan in one piece is nice, it is not necessary to enjoy it.

Flipping a frittata to cook the top is usually the main source of tension in preparation. By eliminating this step, this recipe illustrates how to finish a frittata under the broiler or in the oven. The recipe also calls for a sprinkling of grated cheese on top to add flavor and a golden finish.

Broccoli and Potato Frittata - Makes 4 servings.

• 4 large eggs
• 4 large egg whites
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Cooking spray, preferably olive oil
• ½ cup finely chopped onion
• 2 cups cooked broccoli florets
• 1 cup boiled or baked potato, peeled and sliced (roughly 1 medium potato)
• 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 1 red bell pepper, cut into ½ inch rings
• ½ tsp. dried oregano
• ¼ cup (1 ounce) grated pecorino or parmesan cheese

Preheat the broiler. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs, egg whites, salt and pepper until well combined. Set aside.

Coat a medium skillet (broiler-safe) with cooking spray and set it over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté until they are translucent, stirring constantly. Add the broccoli, mashing it with the back of a wooden spoon to flatten. Break the potatoes into ½-inch pieces and add to skillet, stirring until they are heated through.

Add the cooked vegetables to the bowl of beaten eggs.

Rinse out the sauté pan and return it to a medium-high heat. Add the oil, swirling it to coat the sides of the pan. Pour in the egg and broccoli mixture. As the eggs set, keep lifting the edges of the frittata while tilting the pan. In the center of the pan, pull aside the eggs in various places to let liquid flow to the bottom of the pan. Place the red bell pepper rings into the top of the nearly firm frittata. When the eggs are mostly set, but moist looking on top, sprinkle on the oregano, then the cheese.

Place the frittata under the broiler until the top is dry and set, about two minutes (checking frequently after one minute). Slide the frittata onto a plate and let it sit 15 minutes before cutting.

Cut the frittata into four wedges and serve.

Per serving: 209 calories, 9 g total fat (3 g saturated fat), 16 g carbohydrate, 14 g protein, 3 g dietary fiber, 217 mg sodium.

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