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A Classic Hungarian
Stew
BY DANA JACOBI
FOR THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH |
Last week, I walked to the
last remaining Hungarian food store in my Manhattan neighborhood
to buy my favorite paprika, freshly imported from Hungary. On
the way home, I reflected on what it was like when I first moved
into this part of the Upper East Side in New York City, and how
much living in the neighborhood has influenced my cooking.
Over a hundred years ago, so
many Hungarian immigrants settled into this area of Manhattan
that it was called Little Hungary. From all over the city, people
came to shop at the food stores and eat at the great Hungarian
restaurants. My father preferred The Budapest, where the chicken
paprikash was so tender the meat fell off the bone into a creamy
sauce tinted orange-pink by the paprika. Mopping up the sauce
with spaetzle, tiny golden dumplings, was bliss.
When I began living here in
1980, the restaurants were gone but the famous Hungarian food
emporiums, including Paprikas Weiss and Lekvar by the Barrel,
remained. They were emporiums because they sold poppy seeds,
ground nuts, spices and lekvar, thick fruit butters, tart-sweet,
made of prune or apricot. They also offered the metal spaetzle
makers, pastry tins, hand-painted platters, and even the embroidered
table linens used at an authentic Hungarian feast.
The sales clerks loved explaining
how to make dishes properly. From them, I learned the difference
between the creamy goulash I thought was Hungarian and a genuine
gulyás, a soupy stew whose origins go back to the ninth
century, when shepherds cooked meat and onions slowly in an iron
kettle.
The only proper seasoning for
gulyás, I was told, is caraway seeds and paprika. Of course,
the paprika should be the sweet or hot Hungarian kind, now sold
in many supermarkets. I was also warned to always add some warm
water before pouring in the broth, because this keeps the meat
from turning hard.

Hungarian
Gulyas, Medieval Style - Makes
4 servings.
- 1 Tbsp. olive oil
- 2 1/2 cups onion cut in 1-inch
dice
- 1 lb. lean stewing meat, such
as sirloin, cut in 3/4-inch pieces
- 2 garlic cloves, chopped
- 1 Tbsp. sweet Hungarian paprika
- 3/4 cup warm water
- 1 can (14.25 oz.) fat-free,
reduced-sodium beef broth
- 1/2 tsp. caraway seeds
- 3 plum tomatoes, seeded and
cut in 3/4-inch pieces
- 1 medium green bell pepper,
seeded and cut in 1-inch pieces
- 1 medium red bell pepper,
seeded and cut in 1-inch pieces
- 1/2 lb. small yellow-fleshed
or red-skinned new potatoes, unpeeled, quartered
- Salt and freshly ground black
pepper
- 4 Tbsp. reduced-fat sour cream,
for garnish (optional) inch pieces
Heat the oil in a large pot
or deep skillet over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion
until it is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the meat and cook,
turning the pieces until no longer red on the outside. Mix in
the garlic and paprika. Cook until fragrant, 1 minute.
Stir in the warm water, scraping
the pan to dislodge any food stuck at the bottom. Add the broth
and caraway seeds. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat,
cover and simmer gently until the meat is tender, 40 minutes
to 1 hour.
Add the tomatoes, green and
red peppers and the potatoes. Cook until the potatoes are tender,
about 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
If not serving immediately,
store, covered, in the refrigerator and reheat before serving.
If desired, garnish each serving with a tablespoon of sour cream.
- Per serving:
288 calories, 8 g.
total fat (2 g. saturated fat), 27 g. carbohydrate, 4 g. protein,
4 g. dietary fiber, 247 mg. sodium.
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