French Toast Meets Matzahs BY DANA JACOBI FOR THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH

September is National Mushroom Month. It’s also Prostate Cancer Awareness Month, a fortuitous coincidence, as mushrooms are rich in selenium, a mineral that, according to various studies, appears to help lower the risk of prostate cancer. They are also delicious and multi-talented in the ways they can be used, from thin raw slices in a salad to a meaty portobello burger.

Mushrooms provide intense flavor with little effort. Since they contain no fat and few calories, there are many reasons for eating them regularly. Fresh mushrooms are fairly perishable, but they make quick additions to many dishes, and so are good to have on hand, ready to use.

A simple way to prepare them is to slice white cremini and oven roast them. (Creminis look like white button mushrooms but have the dark brown color of a portobello and the same rich flavor. In fact, they are baby portobellos.) Once roasted, they keep for days in the fridge, or longer in the freezer, to be used later in soups, sauces, salads, or egg dishes like omelets.

There are three stages to sautéing mushrooms. In a regular skillet over high heat, using little or no fat, mushrooms first sweat and make a squeaking sound. Then, they release their liquid. Because they let out lots of moisture, you must use a pan large enough to let the liquid evaporate quickly, so the mushrooms don’t stew and get mushy. Finally, as the moisture boils off, the mushrooms will brown, turning firm and meaty.

Store mushrooms in the refrigerator, loose, in a plain paper bag. Do not worry if the mushrooms wrinkle and dry out a bit. This just concentrates their flavor further. To clean them, simply wipe with a damp paper towel. If you must wash them, do it right before using, and dry them well or they will quickly become spongy and soft.

Mushroom Pâté - Makes 1 cup.

• 3/4 lb. white and cremini mushrooms, stems removed
• 3 large garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
• 1 tsp. dried thyme
• 1/4 cup reduced-fat cream cheese
• 1/4 cup warm water
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• Freshly ground black pepper

Cut large mushrooms in half, then slice as thinly as possible. Cut garlic cloves lengthwise into thick slices.

Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté until pale gold, turning so it colors evenly. Remove and set aside. Add mushrooms to pan. Increase heat to medium-high. Cook until mushrooms release their liquid and are steaming. Add thyme and garlic. Cover pan tightly, and cook until mushrooms are soft, about 10 minutes, adding 1 or 2 tablespoons water if pan starts getting dry.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, use the back of a spoon to cream the cheese with water until mostly incorporated. Add salt and several grinds of pepper. (There will be some small lumps.)

When mushrooms are soft, transfer to a blender. Add cheese mixture. Blend to a rough purée, with some small chunks remaining.

Return mixture to the pan. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens and clings together, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Transfer mixture to a container and cool to room temperature.

Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate up to 2 days. Serve pâté chilled or at room temperature, as a spread for crackers or a dip for red pepper and celery sticks.

Per two-tablespoon serving: 43 calories, 3 g. total fat (1 g. saturated fat), 2 g. carbohydrate, 2 g. protein, 0 g. dietary fiber, 98 mg. sodium.

"Something Different" is written for the American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) by Dana Jacobi, author of The Joy of Soy and recipe creator for AICR's Stopping Cancer Before It Starts.

The American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) is the cancer charity that fosters research on the relationship of nutrition, physical activity and weight management to cancer risk, interprets the scientific literature and educates the public about the results. It has contributed more than $86 million for innovative research conducted at universities, hospitals and research centers across the country. AICR has published two landmark reports that interpret the accumulated research in the field and is committed to a process of continuous review. AICR also provides a wide range of educational programs to help millions of Americans learn to make dietary changes for lower cancer risk. Its award-winning New American Plate program is presented in brochures, seminars and on its Web site, www.aicr.org. AICR is a member of the World Cancer Research Fund International.

ARTICLE POSTED SEPTEMBER 06, 2003

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