Mustard Greens, the Bold Brassica BY DANA JACOBI FOR THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH

Mustard greens are one clan in the immense, and immensely varied, brassica family of leafy greens. From a cook’s standpoint, this variety adds feisty flavor to an otherwise bland dish. Both visually and in texture, brassicas range from the pale white, crisp and sweet-tasting stems of bok choy to the ruffled and zingy leaves of wine-red Japanese mustard greens.

Most of us associate mustard greens with the South, where the curly leaves of green mustard are stewed into submission, usually along with some part of a pig, and served up as stewed greens with “pot likker,” the full-flavored juices at the bottom of the pan.

Perhaps because I am a Yankee, this tender mustard tastes better to me when briefly wilted in a bit of oil or broth, then mixed into rice or served with beans. I also like it cut crosswise into strips and tossed into hot soup, to simmer a few minutes. The short cooking time retains more of the greens’ true flavor, which I do enjoy. They also retain more of their good nutrition, which includes vitamin C, beta carotene, calcium, and natural substances that protect against cancer and other chronic health problems.

If you prefer less aggressive-tasting greens, look for bok choy, or “wrapped heart mustard,” usually found in Asian markets. Their wide leaves, flaring from crunchy, ribbed stems, wraps into a head resembling a romaine lettuce. The Chinese usually use it to make “preserved” or pickled cabbage, but it is delicious braised in chicken broth or added to a stir-fry.

Mustard greens are more tender and far sweeter than kale, collards, or dandelion. They also cook faster than most other dark, leafy greens. All mustard greens shrink enormously in cooking, so one pound may yield as little as a half cup of cooked greens. Try them in place of spinach. Baby mustard greens are often included in the elegant salad mix called mesclun, where they add just the right amount of bite.

Chicken Soup with Greens and Black Beans - Makes 4 servings.

2 tsp. canola oil
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 small green bell pepper, seeded, cut in 1/2-inch dice
1 medium tomato, seeded, cut in 1/2-inch dice
6 cups mustard greens, lightly packed, cut in 1/2-inch strips
4 cups fat-free, reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup canned black beans, rinsed and drained
3/4 cup shredded cooked chicken (3 oz.)
4 tsp. grated Parmesan cheese

Heat oil in a medium Dutch oven or large saucepan. Sauté onion and pepper over medium-high heat until onion is translucent, about 4 minutes. With a wooden spoon, stir in tomatoes and greens, mixing until greens collapse and are bright green, about 3 minutes.

Pour in broth. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until greens are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Mix in beans and chicken. Cook until they are heated through, about 5 minutes.

Divide soup among four bowls. Sprinkle a teaspoon of the cheese over each, and serve.

Per serving: 149 calories, 5 g. total fat (less than 1 g. saturated fat), 18 g. carbohydrate, 13 g. protein, 7 g. dietary fiber, 806 mg. sodium.

"Something Different" is written for the American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) by Dana Jacobi, author of The Joy of Soy and recipe creator for AICR's Stopping Cancer Before It Starts.

The American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) is the cancer charity that fosters research on the relationship of nutrition, physical activity and weight management to cancer risk, interprets the scientific literature and educates the public about the results. It has contributed more than $86 million for innovative research conducted at universities, hospitals and research centers across the country. AICR has published two landmark reports that interpret the accumulated research in the field and is committed to a process of continuous review. AICR also provides a wide range of educational programs to help millions of Americans learn to make dietary changes for lower cancer risk. Its award-winning New American Plate program is presented in brochures, seminars and on its Web site, www.aicr.org. AICR is a member of the World Cancer Research Fund International.

• print this page