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Mustard Greens,
the Bold Brassica
BY DANA JACOBI
FOR THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH |
Mustard greens
are one clan in the immense, and immensely varied, brassica family
of leafy greens. From a cook’s standpoint, this variety
adds feisty flavor to an otherwise bland dish. Both visually
and in texture, brassicas range from the pale white, crisp and
sweet-tasting stems of bok choy to the ruffled and zingy leaves
of wine-red Japanese mustard greens.
Most of us
associate mustard greens with the South, where the curly leaves
of green mustard are stewed into submission, usually along with
some part of a pig, and served up as stewed greens with “pot
likker,” the full-flavored juices at the bottom of the pan.
Perhaps because
I am a Yankee, this tender mustard tastes better to me when briefly
wilted in a bit of oil or broth, then mixed into rice or served
with beans. I also like it cut crosswise into strips and tossed
into hot soup, to simmer a few minutes. The short cooking time
retains more of the greens’ true flavor, which I do enjoy.
They also retain more of their good nutrition, which includes
vitamin C, beta carotene, calcium, and natural substances that
protect against cancer and other chronic health problems.
If you prefer
less aggressive-tasting greens, look for bok choy, or “wrapped
heart mustard,” usually found in Asian markets. Their wide
leaves, flaring from crunchy, ribbed stems, wraps into a head
resembling a romaine lettuce. The Chinese usually use it to make
“preserved” or pickled cabbage, but it is delicious
braised in chicken broth or added to a stir-fry.
Mustard greens
are more tender and far sweeter than kale, collards, or dandelion.
They also cook faster than most other dark, leafy greens. All
mustard greens shrink enormously in cooking, so one pound may
yield as little as a half cup of cooked greens. Try them in place
of spinach. Baby mustard greens are often included in the elegant
salad mix called mesclun, where they add just the right amount
of bite.
Chicken
Soup with Greens and Black Beans - Makes 4 servings.
2 tsp. canola
oil
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 small green bell pepper, seeded, cut in 1/2-inch dice
1 medium tomato, seeded, cut in 1/2-inch dice
6 cups mustard greens, lightly packed, cut in 1/2-inch strips
4 cups fat-free, reduced-sodium chicken broth
1 cup canned black beans, rinsed and drained
3/4 cup shredded cooked chicken (3 oz.)
4 tsp. grated Parmesan cheese
Heat oil in
a medium Dutch oven or large saucepan. Sauté onion and
pepper over medium-high heat until onion is translucent, about
4 minutes. With a wooden spoon, stir in tomatoes and greens,
mixing until greens collapse and are bright green, about 3 minutes.
Pour in broth.
Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer until greens are tender,
about 15 to 20 minutes. Mix in beans and chicken. Cook until
they are heated through, about 5 minutes.
Divide soup
among four bowls. Sprinkle a teaspoon of the cheese over each,
and serve.
Per serving: 149 calories, 5 g. total fat (less than 1 g. saturated
fat), 18 g. carbohydrate, 13 g. protein, 7 g. dietary fiber,
806 mg. sodium.
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