Hearty Pasta with Greens BY DANA JACOBI FOR THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH

Ever since sprightly-green pesto opened our eyes to enjoying pasta with more than red sauces, Americans have become progressively more adventurous. Traveling in Italy, watching television chefs and reading cookbooks like Jack Bishop's Pasta e Verdura, with its 140 vegetable sauces, have taught us to appreciate the many dishes that green vegetables inspire.

Bishop, who uses the Italian approach creatively, braises fennel and kale together, adding a lilt of balsamic vinegar after they have simmered gently until tender. He recommends serving this bold combination over whole wheat pasta, an idea I will come back to.

In a more traditional vein, I have enjoyed the Sicilian favorite, Vruoccole Arriminatu, made from the local, green cauliflower called "broccoli," plus raisins, pine nuts and saffron. Some versions include almonds, tomatoes, or anchovies.

In Abruzzo and Puglia, I found more pasta with greens. The Abruzzese dish I enjoy combines chunky, dumpling-shaped cavatelli with arugula. Although it includes tomato sauce, I prefer it with just the greens and lots of onions. Interestingly, the friend who first made it for me says her mother learned it while staying in Puglia, where one of my all-time favorite pasta dishes, orichette with pungent rape, originated.

Thick, ear-shaped orichette are also available in America. Most supermarkets sell broccoli rabe, but cleaning and blanching these tough-stemmed, leafy greens takes more time than most of us have for a quick meal. Arugula, another pungent green, only needs wilting and simmering with broth, and also pairs well with pasta.

Pasta made from farro, a dark wheat used in both Abruzzo and Puglia, is also sold in many American stores. Like regular whole wheat, it goes particularly well with pungent bitter greens, including rape, arugula, Swiss chard and kale.

Whole-Wheat Pasta with Arugula - Makes 4 servings.

1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 large bunches arugula, stemmed and washed, about 12 cups
1/2 cup fat-free, reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
1/2 cup chopped dill
1/2 cup low-fat ricotta cheese
2 Tbsp. grated pecorino cheese
8 oz. whole-wheat or farro linguini
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

In a medium non-stick skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Sauté onion and garlic until onion is translucent, about 4 minutes.

Coarsely chop arugula. Add it to pan, stirring with wooden spoon until arugula wilts. Stir in broth. Cook until arugula is dark green but still chewy to the bite, about 4-5 minutes. Stir in dill and cook 1 minute. Remove pan from heat.

Stir ricotta and pecorino into hot greens. Set aside.

Cook pasta according to package directions. Drain and place pasta in deep serving bowl. Season greens to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon them on top of pasta and serve.

Per serving: 293 calories, 8 g. total fat (3 g. saturated fat), 46 g. carbohydrate, 15 g. protein, 6 g. dietary fiber, 180 mg. sodium.

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