Soy Brought Back Down to Earth BY DANA JACOBI FOR THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH

A decade ago, when soy was being celebrated in the media as the “ultimate superfood,” you would surely have known that April is Soyfoods Month. This year, though, you may have missed the quieter arrival of this event. The story of soy’s move from food du jour to something less, although still very much deserving of a place on your plate, is an interesting one.

Until the late 1980s, people who ate tofu, miso and soy milk were usually representative of two primary groups: Asians and health food aficionados. In the decade of excess, edamame, or soybeans, were barely known – or seen – even at Japanese restaurants.

Then in the late 1990s, thanks to emerging research (and lots of promotion by soy food producers), studies showing soy’s role in reducing blood cholesterol levels were widely publicized. In 1999, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) gave food manufacturers permission to put health claims on products high in soy protein indicating that these foods may help lower heart disease risk. Phytochemicals in soy were also identified as offering possible protection from certain cancers, along with providing relief from symptoms of menopause.

As Americans tend to do, we decided if something is good, more must be better. Suddenly soy was off to super-stardom. Helping its meteoric rise, soy food manufacturers gave us products that tasted not just better, but actually good – even delicious.

Ultimately, soy’s anti-cancer powers could not be clinically proven, placebo effect seemed to be a significant factor in its heralded role in menopause relief and recent research has negated its role in reducing cholesterol levels.

Although no longer quite the media darling they once were, soy products remain a delicious meatless alternative, providing high-quality protein with very little saturated fat. This week’s recipe features tofu, or soybean curd, in a reinvented burrito. It’s easy to create and thoroughly enjoyable.

Kale, Poblano and Baked Tofu Burrito - Makes 6 servings.

• 1 large (8-ounce) yellow-fleshed potato, peeled
• 3/4 cup water
• 4 tsp. olive oil
• 1 Spanish onion, cut into 1/2-inch slices
• 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 2 cups steamed chopped kale
• 2 roasted, jarred red peppers, cut into strips
• 4 oz. baked tofu, cut into 1/2-inch strips
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 6 (9-inch) whole-wheat tortillas

Cut each pepper lengthwise into 1/2-inch strips and set aside.

Cut the potato crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Stack 3 to 4 slices at a time, and cut them into 1/2-inch wide matchsticks. Place potato in a saucepan with water. Cover, bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.

In a medium skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Sauté onion until it browns, about 8 minutes. Add garlic, oregano, kale and red pepper strips. Cook, stirring often, until mixture is heated through, about 5 minutes. Mix in potatoes and tofu. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove pan from the heat.

Heat tortillas, one at a time, in a dry skillet or 350 degree oven to soften them, about 1 minute each. Arrange 1 cup of the hot filling down the center of each tortilla, roll, and serve.

Per serving: 290 calories, 7 g total fat (1.5 g saturated fat), 46 g carbohydrates, 11 g protein, 7 g dietary fiber, 490 mg sodium.

"Something Different" is written for the American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) by Dana Jacobi, author of The Joy of Soy and recipe creator for AICR's Stopping Cancer Before It Starts.

The American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) is the cancer charity that fosters research on the relationship of nutrition, physical activity and weight management to cancer risk, interprets the scientific literature and educates the public about the results. It has contributed more than $86 million for innovative research conducted at universities, hospitals and research centers across the country. AICR has published two landmark reports that interpret the accumulated research in the field and is committed to a process of continuous review. AICR also provides a wide range of educational programs to help millions of Americans learn to make dietary changes for lower cancer risk. Its award-winning New American Plate program is presented in brochures, seminars and on its Web site, www.aicr.org. AICR is a member of the World Cancer Research Fund International.

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