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- "Something
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- Mexican Tomatillo Soup Shows
Regional Flavor
- BY DANA JACOBI FOR THE AMERICAN
INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH
As Mexican cooking has become
increasingly popular, chefs have taken to exploring its regional
aspects. A refreshing example of this, both for its flavor and
unexpected use of common Mexican ingredients, is a soup created
by restauranteur Bob Kinkead, featured in his recent Kinkead’s
Cookbook. The easy-to-make version below, adapted from his recipe,
shows influences from the Yucatan peninsula jutting out from
Mexico’s southern Gulf Coast.
Food in the Yucatan reflects
influences of the ancient Mayan culture. The Mayans, as well
as Aztecs, the ancient native culture most associated with Mexico,
were fond of tomatillos, also called tomate verde. They are a
cousin of the tomato, which Mexicans call jitomate or tomate,
depending on the region of the country. This dish also calls
for fresh tuna, typical of use of the excellent seafood from
local waters in Yucatan cooking.
Tomatillos are most commonly
used in salsa verde cruda, the green table sauce, and salsa verde,
the lightly cooked sauce used for enchiladas and chilaquiles.
Both these loose, green sauces often call for lightly-boiled
tomatillos, because cooking eliminates their raw taste and rounds
out the lemony, clean flavor we enjoy in most dishes featuring
this Mexican native.
The most flavorful tomatillos
are small. and soft green to yellow or purple outside. All are
vivid green inside. They should feel firm, and the papery husk
covering them should fit tightly, feel dry and show no mold spots.
One reason truly authentic
Mexican cooking is rare in the U.S. is that many of its techniques
take time. Here, both the tomatillos and onions are dry roasted
briefly in a cast iron or other heavy skillet. Different from
conventional grilling, this sears them for outstanding flavor
with less charring. Tangy and hot, the puréed soup retains
a texture that contrasts deliciously with the seared tuna and
diced avocado. Crushed corn chips add crouton-like crunch.
- Tomatillo Soup with Fresh
Tuna - Makes 4 servings.
(Adapted from a recipe in Kinkead’s Cookbook)
- 1 poblano chili pepper
- 3 garlic cloves, chopped
- 1 can (4 oz.) green chiles,
drained
- 1 large onion, preferably
white, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices
- 3/4 lb. tomatillos, husked
and halved crosswise
- 1 1/2 packed cups cilantro
leaves
- 2 cups fat-free, reduced sodium
chicken
- Salt, according to taste
- 1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive
oil
- 3/4 lb. yellowfin or albacore
tuna, cut in 3/4-inch cubes
- 1/2 peeled avocado, diced,
for garnish
- 1/4 cup chopped scallion,
for garnish
- 16 tortilla chips, crumbled,
for garnish
- broth, divided
- Roast the poblano pepper over
an open flame until its skin blisters. Seal it in a paper bag
to steam for 10 minutes. Using your fingers, slip off the skin.
Seed and chop the pepper. Place it in a blender. Add the garlic,
canned chiles and cilantro. Set aside.
Heat a heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the
onion slices in one layer. Cook until grilled in places, 1 minute.
Turn and grill on the other side, 1 minute. Transfer to a plate.
Pan-grill the tomatillos, cut side down, until dark brown in
places, about 2 minutes. Turn and cook until they brown in spots
on the rounded side, 2 minutes. Transfer them to the plate.
Coarsely chop the tomatillos and onions. Add them to the blender
along with 1 cup of the broth. Process into a pulpy purée.
Transfer to a deep saucepan. Stir in remaining broth. Season
to taste with salt. Over medium heat, bring to a boil. Transfer
to 4 shallow soup bowls.
Rinse and dry the skillet. Add the oil and heat over medium-high
heat. Add the tuna chunks, searing and turning them until they
are opaque all the way through, about 3 minutes. Divide the fish
among the bowls. Garnish with avocado, scallions and tortilla
chips. Serve.
Per serving: 181 calories, 5 g. total fat (less than 1 g. saturated
fat), 11 g. carbohydrate, 23 g. protein, 3 g. dietary fiber,
434 mg. sodium.
- _______________________________________
-
- “Something Different”
is written for the American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR)
by Dana Jacobi, author of The Joy of Soy and recipe creator for
AICR’s Stopping Cancer Before It Starts.
AICR offers a Nutrition Hotline (1-800-843-8114) 9 a.m. to 5
p.m. ET Monday-Friday. This free service allows you to ask a
registered dietitian questions about diet, nutrition and cancer.
AICR is the only major cancer charity focused exclusively on
the link between diet, nutrition and cancer. It provides a range
of education programs that help Americans learn to make changes
for lower cancer risk. AICR also supports innovative research
in cancer prevention and treatment at universities, hospitals
and research centers across the U.S. It has provided more than
$70 million for research in diet, nutrition and cancer. AICR’s
Web address is www.aicr.org.
AICR is a member of the World Cancer Research Fund International.
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RECIPE POSTED
MAY 23, 2005
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