The World of Vinegar BY DANA JACOBI FOR THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE FOR CANCER RESEARCH

Pungent vinegar has been around even longer than wine, although its name comes from vin aigre, French for sour wine. Vinegar occurs naturally when certain bacteria convert the alcohol in a fermented base into acetic acid. Instead of wine, the base may be apples, beer, or grain, producing cider vinegar, malt vinegar (from beer made without hops), Asian rice vinegar and distilled white vinegar, which starts with grain alcohol and is distilled as well as fermented.

Industrially-produced wine vinegar may also be distilled, a heat process that drives off many of the volatile compounds that give brewed vinegar its complex flavor. For brewed vinegar, which costs more because it takes longer to produce, the wine or other base is inoculated with bacteria and set aside in metal vats or wooden barrels that also enhance the vinegar’s flavor. This second fermentation takes months, even years. For the true balsamic vinegar of Modena, Italy, for example, fermentation can last up to 100 years, the aging taking place in a series of different size casks, each made of a different kind of wood, and all adding their own flavor notes.

The bacteria that create vinegar clump together, forming a mass called “mother of vinegar.” Sometimes you find a “mother” floating in a vinegar bottle. If you save this gelatinous skin and add it to wine, you’ll have a starter for making your own vinegar.

You can buy vinegar flavored with garlic and fresh herbs, especially tarragon or basil, to use in salad dressings or sprinkle on sliced tomatoes, steamed broccoli, green beans and other cooked vegetables. These commercial vinegars are preferable to making them, because if you do not follow proper procedures the wrong bacteria might turn up and make you ill.

Vinegar is the base for chimichurri, the sauce Argentines love. Loaded with garlic and parsley, it is excellent with poultry and spooned over warm beans. Argentines use chimchurri on grilled meat like we use ketchup or steak sauce. I love it as an all-purpose sauce, or even as a salad dressing. It is good on grilled or baked salmon, burgers and beef, or tofu.

Chimichurri Sauce - Makes 1 cup, or 8 1-tablespoon servings.

• 3 firmly packed cups flat-leaf parsley leaves (1 large bunch)
• 6 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
• 1 tsp. dried oregano
• 1 tsp. sweet paprika
• 1 tsp. hot pepper sauce
• 1/8 tsp. ground black pepper
• 1 tsp. kosher or sea salt (1/2 tsp. table salt)
• 1/4 cup white wine or cider vinegar
• 1/3 cup water
• 2 Tbsp. olive oil

Place parsley and garlic in a food processor or blender. (If using a blender, add vinegar first.) Pulse until parsley and garlic are roughly chopped. Add oregano, paprika, pepper sauce, black pepper, and salt. Pour in vinegar and water. Blend until parsley is well-chopped but not puréed. With the motor running, drizzle in the oil.

Per serving: 22 calories, 2 g. total fat (less than 1 g. saturated fat), 1 g. carbohydrate, less than 1 g. protein, less than 1 g. dietary fiber, 79 mg. sodium.

“Something Different” is written by Dana Jacobi, author of 12 Best Foods Cookbook and contributor to AICR’s New American Plate Cookbook: Recipes for a Healthy Weight and a Healthy Life.

The American Institute for Cancer Research (AICR) is the cancer charity that fosters research on the relationship of nutrition, physical activity and weight management to cancer risk, interprets the scientific literature and educates the public about the results. It has contributed more than $86 million for innovative research conducted at universities, hospitals and research centers across the country. AICR has published two landmark reports that interpret the accumulated research in the field and is committed to a process of continuous review. AICR also provides a wide range of educational programs to help millions of Americans learn to make dietary changes for lower cancer risk. Its award-winning New American Plate program is presented in brochures, seminars and on its Web site, www.aicr.org. AICR is a member of the World Cancer Research Fund International.

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