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2. Use a Quality
Shaving Cream
Use a shaving cream that has a high concentration of lubricants
(eg silicones) and moisturizers. The best shaving creams create
a rich creamy lather and do not foam up like the cheaper drug
store brands. The less "foaming" in the shave cream
the better, as it is what is in contact with the skin and beard
that matters - all else is wasted. Less resistance, less irritation
and less nicks also mean a longer lasting blade! While the primiary
function of the shaving cream is to lubricate your face so that
the razor will glide smoothly and effortlessly across the surface,
it also serves to lock the moisture into the whiskers, keeping
them soft and upright, primed for the cut. The ideal scenario
is to leave the shaving cream on your face for at least a minute
before you begin cutting, so that the beard is as soft and wet
as possible.
3. A Shaving
Brush is One of the Best Tools
One of the best tools you can use to achieve the optimum shave
is a shaving brush (as top barbers do). A shaving brush does
a couple of things. First, it helps raise the hair so that a
closer cut is possible. Second, it helps create a rich creamy
lather with the shaving cream that stays close to the skin. And,
finally, it helps remove dead skin cells (exfoliation) which
reduces the chance of blemishes, razor bumps and also helps the
skin look and feel smooth and healthy. Always look for a shaving
brush with bristles that have the right balance between softness
(to create a rich creamy that stays close to the skin) and resistance
to raise the beard (making a closer cut easier!)
4. Apply the shaving cream using the brush
in a circular motion ending in an upward stroke to help lift
the beard up and away from the face.
5. Use a Quality
Razor and Change the Blades
Always use a good quality sharp razor blade. Be sure the blade
is sharp. You're not just cutting off hair, you're also scraping
off up to two layers of surface skin when you shave. A dull blade
is more traumatic to the skin, making your face feel scratchy
and look blotchy. Depending on the toughness of your beard, change
the blade somewhere between every three and every ten shaves,
if you shave every day. Two weeks is too long to go without changing
blades. Regardless of the number of shaves, if the blade is dulled,
ditch it.
As to which brand
of razor to use - we think you can't go wrong with any of the
Gillette Mach series. Of course there are very high quality and
expensive razors available at specialty retailers that you may
want to try.
Rinse your blade
under hot water before you begin to shave and after every few
swipes. This removes the accumulated shaving cream, whiskers,
and skin goop. For a really close shave, remoisten the section
you just shaved, by spreading a thin layer of lather from another
area of your face, and then swiping that area again. Keep everything
moist. (Note: The use of hot water here is to help lubricate,
has nothing to do with "killing bacteria.")
6. Use the Razor
Properly
Ideally shave in the direction of the beard growth. Start with
the sides, then the moustache area and last the chin. The chin
hairs are the toughest, so this allows them the most time to
soften under the shave cream.
Shaving against
the direction of hair growth gives a closer shave, but has two
drawbacks:
A. It's a good
way to donate blood, and
B. You run a high risk of cutting off a hair below skin level,
causing an ingrown hair (razor bumps) - the whisker grows into
the surrounding tissue instead of out of the pore, resulting
in inflammation and possible infection.
To avoid these
shaving problems, again, shave "with the grain" (that
is, in the direction your hair grows.) Each person's facial hair
has its own growth pattern. If you are unsure of the direction
of your beard, let it grow for a day or two and you'll see it.
7. If you want
an even Closer Shave
If you wish to
achieve an even closer shave (as many barbers do) apply some
more lather from your brush (add more cream if necessary) to
the areas you wish to shave again. This is one of the extra advantages
of using a brush. For most guys, re-shaving certain areas with
the grain should do the job. Professional barbers, by the way,
usually first shave with the grain, and then re-shave going sideways
- but they're trained professionals!
But, don't over
shave. Too much shaving will cause skin irritation and rashes.
Rinse the blade
thoroughly before you put it away. (The water temperature isn't
going to have any impact on bacteria; you're rinsing the blade
to get rid of hairs, shaving cream, oils, and gunk, not to kill
bacteria. You'd need to boil the razor for that, which is not
necessary.) Do NOT wipe the blade with a tissue or towel--that
will just dull it faster.
8. Cleanse and
Soothe After Shaving
After shaving, when the skin is most vulnerable (remember, you've
just scraped off up to 2 layers of surface skin!), rinse the
face with warm water and use a facial wash that has a high concentration
of tea tree oil (a natural antiseptic that is ideal to help cleanse
and protect from spots and shaving rash) and witch hazel (for
its soothing, healing and astringent properties).
9. Rinse with the coolest water that is
comfortable and pat dry with a clean towel. (Don't rub! Just
pat)
10. Finish off
with an Aftershave Moisturizer.
Shaving can remove up to two layers of skin. There is no other
regular activity that does this, which is why it is so important
to use a good quality moisturizer after shaving. An after shave
moisturizer, designed as an after shave balm and moisturizer
in one, is the ideal way to replace lost moisture and soothe
the skin. And, be sure to use one made just for guys - these
formulas are designed so that they are not greasy, absorb quickly
and dry with a matte finish so that your face doesn't look shiny.
Typically moisturizers made for women are too greasy as men tend
to have not only thicker skin but also oiler skin than women
due to men's larger sebaceous glands. The best aftershave moisturizers
not only replace lost moisture and soothe, but also have ingredients
that will cool and refresh the skin.
Following these
10 shaving tips should help you achieve optimum skin health,
avoid shaving problems and help you look and feel your best. |
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