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Perfume was at the centre of aesthetics
and therapeutics for both men and women in Ancient Egypt. Although
the techniques used are mostly unrecorded, historians look to
the literature of Greek and Roman writers and relief paintings
and artefacts to determine the production, fashions and uses
of perfume in this fascinating era.
The act of making perfume was considered an art form
in Ancient Egypt. The craftsperson was considered to be an artist
and the profession was open to women as well as men. The perfume
making process of extraction can be determined by reliefs on
the walls of tombs in Petosiris. These show that perfume making
had an overseer, workers who completed the extraction and a professional
tester who completed rigorous testing using the sense of smell.
The reliefs also pictorially
detail two extraction processes. The first process shown was
an ancient mechanical extraction process which was similar to
wine production. This required a large bag and two staffs which
were used as a press. The second was a form of chemical extraction
with the assistance of heat and soaking in alcohol. The processes
are early versions of modern perfume extraction techniques that
have only really advanced in terms of equipment available and
synthetic ingredients. |
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The reliefs also show red berries
poured from a container, which details the nature of the products
used to extract different scents. The ingredients used in perfume
were usually plant in origin such as henna and cinnamon. The
ancient natural philosopher, Pliny the Elder, records floral
scents such as iris, bitter almond and lilies in his Natural
History as being used in abundance. Myrrh which is a resin from
shrubs and other aromatic woods were used. Animal fats such as
musk are also recorded as being used in some perfumes. Some Egyptian
recipes are still in existence though they are difficult to replicate.
However, the Egyptians had
typically exotic tastes, and in addition to home grown essences,
they also imported aromatics such as ladanum from Arabia and
East Africa, galbanum from Persia, and the coveted frankincense
due to unsuccessful attempts to grow it in Egyptian climes. The
fact that ingredients were imported even in ancient times shows
the importance of perfume. The imported varieties were expensive
and initially reserved for the use of the gods or export only.
Excavated reliefs show that
from ancient times the blend and quantity of perfume was as important
as how long the scent would last. Perfume was a major export
material in ancient times with various countries battling to
produce the highest quality. Susinum was a particular favourite,
and the competitive nature shows that in ancient times, some
form of uniformity and standard was expected. Pliny the Elder
described an Egyptian perfume that retained its scent after 8
years, and the ancient Greek botanist, Dioscorides, agreed that
Egyptian perfume was far superior to that made by other civilisations.
Egyptian perfumes were usually
named after the town of production or the main ingredient. Storage
was in glass or stone vessels, with alabaster being the most
coveted. The decoration was ornate and often bejewelled, with
packaging reflecting modern day requirements of functionality
and attractiveness. Perfume was burnt as incense, as named in
documents from the reign of Thutmose III which detail different
varieties such as green incense and white incense. Perfume was
worn for aesthetic reasons, in the form of oil based liquid infusions,
or wax and fat for creams and salves. This suggests there was
also a medicinal purpose recognised.
Perfume was mainly for the elite classes until the
golden age. It was used by kings who were believed to be of divine
descent as it was believed that the gods favoured perfume. High
officials were anointed with perfume when they were appointed
to office to call the favour of the gods.
Incense was used to hide the smell of animal sacrifice
during ceremonies. Balms were seen as medicinal as perfume was
thought to repel demons and win the favour of the gods. Perfume
was also an important part of death and burial rites. Bodies
were perfumed during mummification as it was believed the soul
would visit the gods and so perfume would repel demons. Interestingly,
3300 years after Tutankhamen death, scent could still be detected
in his tomb. |
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