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The ingredients were mainly
homegrown flowers such as iris and marjoram, roses, lilies, and
violets. Herbs and spices such as sage and cumin were also used.
Incense and myrrh were seen as decadent and were perfume ingredients
reserved for gods until the 4th century when there was a shift
in tastes, ideology and availability. Like other ancient civilization,
the ancient Greeks imported oriental essences to create more
exotic perfumes. However, unlike other civilizations, they kept
them mainly for their own use, rather than for export.
Perfume was central to ancient
Greek life. It was so popular that the politician Solon temporarily
banned the use of it to prevent an economic crisis. It was at
the centre of hospitality, wealth, status, daily life and even
philosophy. It was seen as erotic, mystical and spiritual. It
was linked to beauty which was inextricably linked with divinity.
The origins of perfume and perfumery are interwoven with Greek
mythology. In Homeric tradition, the Olympian gods taught perfumery
to people. The colour and scent of the rose is attributed to
events surrounding Venus and Cupid.
Perfume
was worn by both men and women and was central to cult worship
as it was seen as pleasing to the gods and able to win their
favour. It covered the scent of sacrifices during ceremonies,
and was used as a good omen for marriage and childbirth. Babies
were anointed with it for good health. It was also central to
death. Perfumed libations were carried at the front of the funeral
procession. Bodies were burned wrapped in perfumed shrouds which
were thought to help secure a happy afterlife. Other bodies were
buried with containers of it, again as offerings to the gods.
Perfume was also integral
to cleanliness, and used in elaborate bathing rituals by both
men and women. It was used so widespread that the philosopher
Socrates openly disliked and dismissed its usage claiming it
made a free man indistinguishable from a slave. Athletes used
perfume after exercise for medicinal purposes in the form of
balms and unguent oils. This is an early recognition of the possible
therapeutic and healing properties that are reminiscent of attitudes
towards aromatherapy and aromacology in modern times. Hospitality
also required an abundance of perfume as guest`s feet were washed
and anointed on being seated. Some wines were also perfumed according
to works by Appicius, in the hope that they had medicinal properties.
With the importance of perfume
so apparent, it is no surprise that it was stored in bottles
shaped as birds an animals, sometimes only a few inches in size.
Many are found from around the 6th century BC and are known as
plastics. In fact, the perfume bottles are spun ceramics and
they commonly adopted a shape which reflected the type of perfume
to be contained.
Lekuthos
were used for liquid perfume and were slim elegant glass bottles.
Aryballes were used for oils and unguents. Alabastron perfume
bottles were highly prized, mainly amongst women and it was common
for the craftsmen to brand the bottles to mark their craftsmanship,
making them even more collectable. As you can see, there are
many similarities to modern day attitudes towards perfume. |
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