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Water makes up 60% of the human
body. Not only blood and other body fluids have water as their
main ingredient, water is stored in all body tissues. Cytoplasm,
cells and cell walls contain lots of water. Skin is a large water
storage, yet it gets dry, itchy and flaky. Why?
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Every day 4-8 oz.
of water evaporates through the skin, and we don't even notice
how it happens. Replenishing water by drinking more fluids is
helpful, but does not guarantee smooth and resilient skin. Moisture
balance is regulated by chemical reactions in tissues, and is
not directly related to the amount of water you drink.
If we could apply
water topically, it would not help much either. Skin does feel
soft and moisturized right after a bath: it happens because the
horny layer (the outermost skin layer), which is formed by dead
skin cells, absorbs water. |
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During a bath up
to 2 oz. of water can be absorbed by the skin. But this water
is not allowed any deeper than the surface cells. Later, within
10 minutes, all this water evaporates, leaving skin dry again.
Human skin has its
own mechanism to prevent moisture loss. Our skin cells work hard
to create a protective layer. This layer consists of oils, aminoacids,
sugar compounds and other elements, either water or oil soluble.
All together they bind with water and don't let it evaporate.
Water, that is not allowed to leave skin surface, is absorbed
by the horny layer cells. The skin becomes softer, smoother and
more flexible.
Hot or cold air,
low humidity, frequent contacts with water or cleansing solutions
ruin the protective layer, and skin loses its natural ability
to hold moisture. When water level in the skin drops by 10%,
the skin becomes dry, itchy and flaky.
As we age, skin's
protection mechanism slows down and skin becomes dry. In some
people dry skin is inherited genetically.
Even though the
outermost skin layer is made of dead cells, we have to take care
of it. The primary function of the horny layer is protection
of deeper skin layers, where new cells are born. Regular use
of hydrating creams helps to prevent water loss, restore moisture
balance and elasticity of the outer skin layer and help it do
its job.
Oils, mucopolysaccharides,
and fatty acids are widely used in cosmetics to prevent water
loss. The most effective cosmetic ingredients for this purpose
are liposomes, ceramides and sphingolipids.
Liposomes are microscopic
spheres that can be used to encapsulate water, vitamins or other
beneficial ingredients. Because these elements are similar in
structure to cell membrane, they are easily utilized by the skin.
They can penetrate skin surface, bind with it and release the
substances they carry.
Ceramides and Sphingolipids
are the elements that hold skin cells together so that the environment
can not get in and the moisture can not get out. Lipids are lost
with age, and the moisture barrier is weakened. Research shows
that applying ceramides topically has the effect of generating
ceramide production in the skin, thereby increasing the lipid
content and reinforcing the protective barrier.
Look for creams
with the above ingredients to keep your skin in its best condition
and defy aging. |